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The Clamdigger's Socks

The Clamdigger's Socks

June 19, 2018

Some years, there's a couple days in summer where you may need a thinner sock than the Fisherman's Boot Sock, enter: The Clamdigger's socks!

 

This is a basic pattern for Durasport which can easily be altered for a custom fit, or to dress them up with your own designs! It includes Women's, Men's average, and Men's large. Though for me it's much more tedious than worsted weight socks, the end results are comfy and lightweight. I actually use these in my shearing moccs. Though it's hot work (you can only shear when the lanolin is melted and up in the fleece) wool is surprisingly breathable. 

 

A note on sizing: I have hobbit feet, which makes it difficult for me to know what 'normal' is in the sock-sizing world. That being said, the women's size fits my size 10 feet with negative ease, and I say always go for negative ease with socks. They take a lot of wear and tear and will stretch, and I'd rather have tight-fitting socks than droopy, draggy socks, wouldn't you? 

The men's average size will fit a large range of men's foot sizes, and the men's large is for those with big old clompy feet. 

You'll have plenty of yarn in one 4 ounce skein of Durasport for a pair of women's socks and average men's socks, but for the extra large it will be close, probably 2 skeins would be better. This is how much I had left behind for men's average, which is one ounce.

 

The Clamdigger's Socks

 

Sizes: Women (Men's average) (Men's Large)

Materials: 1 (1) (2) skeins Briggs and Little Durasport

1 set of 2.5mm double pointed needles

 

 

Cuff:

Cast on 64 (64)(72) stitches on size 2.5mm double-pointed needles, arranging stitches comfortably. Mark beginning of round, work in knit 2, purl 2 rib around. Continue in this manner for 6 (8) (10) inches, or until cuff is desired length.

 

 

 

Heel flap:

Beginning on the next round (right side), Knit 1, slip 1 15 (16) (17) times, knit one more stitch. 31 (33) (35) heel stitches.

 

TURN your work now, and work just these heel stitches back and forth to create the heel flap, purling on the back side and knit 1, slip 1 on the right side, as established in pattern. 

Work 31 (33) (35) rows, ending with a purl side row.

Turn the heel:

Knit 21 (22) (23) stitches, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over knit stitch, turn work.

Slip 1, purl 12, purl 2 together, turn work.

Slip 1, Knit 12, slip 1, knit 1, passed slipped stitch over. 

 

Repeat these last two rows until only the center 12 stitches remain, ending with a right side row. 

 

Without turning work, pick up 15 stitches along the edge of the heel flap, knit across the top of foot stitches, pick up 15 more stitches on the other side of the heel flap, knit a few stitches from the heel turn so that the sock forms a comfortable triangle. Mark the center of the heel flap stitches as the beginning of your round.

 

Gusset (foot decrease):

Decrease round: Working in the round once more, knit to the last three stitches on the first needle, knit 2 together, knit 1. Knit top of foot stitches even. On the last needle of the round, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over, knit to end.

 

Next round: Knit all stitches. 

 

Work these 2 rounds until you have 64 (70) (76) stitches. Work these stitches even until the foot measures 7.5 (9) (10) inches from the heel, or until it reaches the end of your pinky toe when you try it on. 

 

Toe Decrease:

Arrange stitches so that the first needle has 16 (18) (19) stitches, the second needle has 32 (35) (38) stitches, and the last needle has 16 (17) (19). 

Round 1: Knit until the last three stitches on needle 1, knit two together, knit 1. Moving to needle 2, knit 1, slip 1, pass slipped stitch over, knit to the last 3 stitches, knit two together, knit 1. On needle 3, knit 1, slip 1, pass slipped stitch over, knit to end.

Round 2: Knit.

Repeat these two rounds until less than 20 remain, slip yarn through needles and secure on the inside. For a kitchener toe, you'll need to start sooner, just make sure you have an even number of stitches on each needle and that it's centered.

 

Left: kitchener, right: pulled-through.

I do have a confession; I'm not much of a kitchener-toe type person. You see, we are a family of pointy-toed people and therefore the traditional pull-it-through toe works best for us. But it does make a handsome-looking sock to go for that rounded toe. 

 

Rinse and let dry on sock blockers, go catch a tide!

 

 

 

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